There’s a new place worth the visit in North Oakland thanks to the arrival of Descanso. Based upon the creative vision of mixologist and restaurateur Chris VavRosky, and late wife Heidi, the part eatery-part bar was designed to revolve around two things: a good meal and a well-deserved break. “Descanso is a Latin word meaning to relax, to rest, and as far as I am concerned it means, ‘slow down, come in to my restaurant, sit down, order some guac and chips and a marg and chill out,” says VavRosky. “It is a statement and a philosophy, and I learned the term when I lived in the Caribbean, working as a dive instructor, bartender and bar and restaurant developer for some small resorts. It stuck in my head.”

Designed by Niko Preovolos of Dwellingpoint Design, the “Central America-meets-Mexico-and the Carribbean” restaurant is layered with a blend of found and new objects from red, yellow, and metal, industrial-style chairs, tables constructed of Redwood from VavRosky’s own deck, and reclaimed doors and windows collected from neighbors and salvage yards. “The effect is a gathered look and feel along with some modern metal incorporated throughout,” says VavRosky. “But it is also a metaphor for opening new [old] doors, taking new paths, and mixing old with new. Every piece has a history to it.”

The menu, conceived by VavRosky and inspired by his travels and experiences living abroad, includes casual fare such as Caribbean caesar salad, vegan rice bowls, “durado-style” beef, pulled pork, and chicken tacos, and barbecue black beans made using a special in-house smoker. “The menu is a two-decade research project with tried and true flavors and combinations that I have tweaked over the years,” he says. “I have come up with something I call ‘durado’ style, with a technique that uses a fresh grilled tortilla with spicy, melted cheese, and a slightly crispy shell that is flat-ironed with oil, and placed on top of the soft tortilla, then finished with some house pickled onion or radish.”

But, along with the food, VavRosky has placed equal emphasis on the cocktails (he worked with his chemistry teacher in college to learn the art of infusing alcohol with fruits, herbs, and veggies) with standouts from the cucumber-infused gin gimlet to the michelada concocted with tomato juice, spices, fresh lime juice, bitters, and Carte Blanca beer. “Creative cocktails are what I am all about, and I like using seasonal fresh ingredients from our kitchen to come up with things people have never experienced before,” says VavRosky. “Perhaps one of the greatest accomplished in this endeavor, is that it so many good things happen at the bar. People connect and communicate, even if only for an hour or so. This is a continual work in progress, and I love how the place comes to life for me with the stories it holds and continues to, as families, friends, and regulars pass in and out the door.” 4184 Piedmont Ave., Oakland; 510/719-8481.

By Jennie Nunn

Pictured: Descanso in Oakland
Photos Courtesy of Descanso

 

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