“A Bulgari jewel is as recognizable as a Chanel suit,” art historian Eveline Schlumberger once wrote of the Roman company with Greek heritage in a 1963 article for Connaissance des Arts. Andy Warhol declared the company “a museum of contemporary art.” “Bulgari was able to tap into our culture and come up with something people wanted,” remarks Martin Chapman, co-curator of the de Young exhibition “The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond, 1950-1990,” which includes almost 150 pieces—some donated by collectors Jennifer Tilly, Linda Chaiken and Dede Wilsey and runs from Saturday, September 21 to Monday, February 17, 2004.

Breaking away from the tradition of diamonds arranged in garlands and other organic compositions, Bulgari chose geometry. Each decade stands out: Jeweled flower brooches suspend from springs, causing them to “tremble” and sparkle—that’s the ’50s. Jumbles of bold, candy-colored stones, sensuous snake bracelets paved in enamel—the ’60s. Look for sautoirs, Egyptian motifs, stars and stripes, and ancient coins in heavy gold—now think ’70s. 1980s? Recall the Parentesi collection: architectural bracelets, almost computer-inspired but purportedly shaped after Roman curbs. “They looked to their heritage and came up with something fresh and bold and new,” adds Chapman.

The personalities who wore these pieces equally fascinate. In the ’50s, socialites gravitated toward the house. Clare Boothe Luce, U.S. ambassador to Italy, commissioned major emerald pieces, while Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton wore the octagonal Pasha diamond. During the Cinecittà era, movie star Liz Taylor considered the shop on Via dei Condotti her personal jewelry box. (“The only Italian word Elizabeth knows is Bulgari,” Richard Burton famously said.) Cher and Sharon Stone in the ’70s and ’80s have given way to the enigmatic Carla Bruni Sarkozy, who is the face of the distinctive collection today. “Think of those movie stars,” says Chapman. “They’re larger than life: Gina Lollobrigida and Sophia Loren. They are certainly not reticent.”

By Elizabeth Chandler

Pictured: Sophia Loren wears a parure of cabochon sapphires, rubies, and diamonds in this archival shot taken in 1960.
Photo courtesy of Archive Farabola

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