“Learn all the rules, and then learn to break them,” said Gladys Perint Palmer as she addressed guests assembled for a panel discussion at the Academy of Art University‘s Morgan Auditorium in San Francisco on Wednesday, February 19. The fashion illustrator and executive director of the University’s fashion school had recently returned from Paris where she viewed and drew her interpretations of the spring 2014 haute couture collections. Palmer is known for pushing the envelope with her irreverent critiques. “Donatella Versace has banned me from her shows,” she noted. “And that is very different than not receiving an invitation.” And this season Palmer introduced new innovation to her art kit. She used an iPad to draw what she was seeing in real time as each look came down the runway at Christian Dior, Chanel, Alexis Mabille, and Franck Sorbier. “I’m like a teenager with a first boyfriend, that’s how much I love drawing on this thing,” said Palmer who uses a stylus and an iPad app called Paper by 53. “But,” she adds, “If you can’t draw, the iPad won’t help you.”

Palmer showed illustrations that depicted highlights of the spring 2014 couture collections including Viktor & Rolf‘s modern ballerinas and the much-discussed sneakers worn by models at both Chanel and Dior. “I would love a pair of pink sneakers,” exclaimed Palmer “It was wonderful to see the models prancing, running about, and looking so elegant in sneakers!”

University President Elisa Stephens joined Palmer to report on the International New York Times Luxury Conference hosted by Suzy Menkes (who just left the newspaper for a new role as International Vogue Editor) where Stephens presented work by fashion students at the event held in Singapore. Simon Ungless, director of the University’s fashion school, discussed the economy and current retail environment. “The crash of the last few years demanded that the clothes produced had to be saleable. Relatable. It made students fearful,” said Ungless “I think that’s changing now. Designers like Gareth Pugh and Rick Owens are doing new silhouettes, they’re starting to push things again.” Palmer reminded guests of a chat she had with Karl Lagerfeld backstage at Chanel. She said she congratulated the famed creative director on designing a wonderful show, “as always.” Palmer said the designer shot back “Never say always. One must never look back. You must keep looking forward.” And there it was, fashion’s golden rule reiterated by one of its most talented prolific designers.

By Jennifer McCullum

 

Pictured: Simon Ungless, Elisa Stephens & Gladys Perint Palmer
Photo by Bob Toy

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